The most important part of any man’s wardrobe is the suit. Every man should own at least one suit though 3 would be better. The suit is obviously the go-to business attire that is required for most meetings and higher paying jobs.

When you see a person wearing a suit, you automatically assign them some sort of authority because that is what the suit represents.

The rules and tips described in this post will help any man that is not used to wearing suits to be able to master the art of wearing one simply and quickly. Wearing a suit doesn’t have to be an ordeal. It should come natural to you and after reading this post and wearing a suit a few times you will feel completely natural wearing one.

Though this post covers suits, the information found within also works if you want to wear a blazer or sports coat for a more business casual look.

With that said, let’s get into the post:

The navy blue suit is the go-to option if you don’t have a suit.

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If you currently don’t own a suit a navy-blue suit is where you would want to start. A navy-blue suit is a staple or flagship of any closet. This should be your first investment in dress clothes as it looks good on anyone. Just follow the steps discussed in this post to get the best fit possible.

A Charcoal suit would be the second suit color I would invest in after a navy-blue suit. This along with the navy-blue are the suits found most commonly amongst men, especially in business settings.

Rule Number 1: Tailor Your Suits

To get the best look possible the number one thing you should be doing after picking a suit is to get it professionally tailored. Tailors know how a blazer should fit, and how the pants should break on your shoes.

They will measure your different sizes and give you that fit a suit should properly have that will take your manliness to another level. By getting the suit tailored you can achieve some great illusions that will make your body look its best.

If you have ever seen a suit that doesn’t look good on someone or that something seemed off with it I can guarantee you it was that the suit did not fit their body size and shape correctly.

Here is a quick example of the difference between the two for those still not convinced:

The blazer has a few areas that are important. The five areas that you want to measure and check are:

A) The shoulder length

B) The lapel size

C) The feel of the blazer when button

D) The sleeve length

E) The jacket length.

blazer fit size guidelines

Blazer

The shoulder length is the first of the five areas to check. The blazer’s length from the collar to the top of the sleeve should match your shoulder width perfectly. You will notice that it is too long or big if you see a dent in your sleeve where it meets the top of your shoulder. Obviously, you would be able to tell if it is too tight if the sleeve, jacket line isn’t at the top of your shoulder.

The next part is the lapel size. The lapel is the folded over part of the jacket that begins at the button and goes towards your collar on both sides of the blazar as shown by the letter B in the photo above. You should aim for a 3 ½ inch lapel width for a normal suit. Some modern suits are made either wider or narrower and how you want it is up to you and your tastes.

The most important part is how much the blazer hugs your chest and stomach when buttoned. You want that silhouette look but never an actual X with the center on your button. Anytime you see an X that signals that it is too tight. But too much room (more than 1inch of pull when buttoned from the chest) and you will look blocky and square. Always unbutton a two button blazer when sitting and never button the bottom button.

If you want to learn some more basic men’s fashion rules ready this post: 5 Simple Men’s Fashion Rules To Improve Your Style.

A tip I have heard from Aaron Marino (I Am Alpha M) is to try a size smaller than you normally would to start and work your way from there.

For the sleeves make sure that you can see an inch of your dress shirt past the end of the blazer sleeve. One trick to try is to stand straight and have your hands by your sides. Then flatten your hands and point your palms towards the ground. Your hand should be perpendicular with your wrist and your blazer and shirt should rest right on the back of your hand.

Finally, the length of the blazer, no matter your size, should end at the thumb’s knuckle. For some people with longer or shorter arms, you can also go by the rule that the back of the blazer should cover about half of your buttocks.

Mens dress pants rules

Dress Pants

For the pants make sure that you’re wearing your correct size and nothing too tight too large. The important part here would be the actual length of the pants.

There is a great trick for shorter guys that basically by hemming your pants and making them shorter than normal you can make the illusion of looking taller but you want the pants to break only once on the front side and to be about half an inch of the ground on the back side.

The backside of the pant should not break and be straight line up.

mens tie ties

Ties

Learn to tie a tie, it’s something every man should know. Try and match the tie with the square using complementary colors or same colors. For extra flair try and play with the patterns of both. If you need help tying a tie here is a video with the simpler methods:

To take the suit to another level wear a pocket square and vest. We’ll discuss layering a little bit later on for the business look during winter but for now, any vest or tie would work. A vest is a little more classier than normal so you can skip that if you want but a pocket square is essential to adding some spice to the suit’s look.

IMPORTANT TIP: Remove the X that holds the back flaps of the blazer together. These are only meant to keep the overall fold and look of the blazer when shipped but not to be worn. Other people who know will see this and know you’ve never worn a suit before.

Conclusion

I touched on this a little before but besides the fit, your colors and patterns should match (this does not mean they must be the same, for example, you can wear a white shirt with a navy-blue jacket and a grey tie or something similar. Same with patterns though it’s a little more complicated with patterns). I will discuss the color wheel and different types of color combinations in a future post.

Any man can sport a suit and will ultimately look better in it than any outfit. Today suits still show authority and manliness which shows only if you’re wearing the suit correctly.

Follow some of these tips and you should be ready to go. As for more complicated rules and ideas, that is for a future post.